hi there I'm Kyle with iFixit and I am
here with Jessa Jones from iPad rehab
and we have been working on a series
where we're teaching you how to do micro
soldering so this is repairing things at
the extraordinarily tiny level so not
just swapping out a display but actually
repairing individual components on the
board
yep and the in the last video we showed
you how to or I was able for the first
time ever to do a repair on an iPad Mini
so I was able to replace a lil time that
was an incredible repair it really was
so that was exciting so god I'm totally
jazzed and I want to fix everything and
so we've been going around the office
looking for things to fix and this is an
iPhone 4s that that one of our staff had
had used it for a long time it stopped
working he tried fixing it by replacing
the battery replacement some other
things was never able to get it to work
if you put off charge battery in here it
works fine but it's not charging the
battery is that right close if you let's
grab that charger that's next to you and
we can kind of show you what happens
with this so this phone I thought was a
good candidate for repair because it was
a we wanted to use it for a video later
on and we were finding that that I gave
him hours on fine it would boot up and
work you know it'll come to full display
there as long as the charger is
connected but if you disconnect the
charger the phone should then switch to
battery power and stay on but it doesn't
it just sort of clicks clicks clicks off
right so this is the sort of infuriating
thing we like it almost works the phone
is fine there's just one little thing
right and and this you know so we're
gonna talk trouble with general
troubleshooting tactics how do you go
from I know I have a problem but then no
idea where to start right and these
sorts of troubleshooting techniques are
generic to any kind of electronic board
repair you're getting into exactly so
there's a few things that I that I just
sort of want to cover about general
troubleshooting and this is just a good
example to use to kind of cover those
things so the first thing is you know to
you know kind of get a history of the
problem and sort of figure out where
you're going to start thinking about
this we want to get a we want to sort of
apply a thoughtful approach and get away
from just sort of like you know Rand
trying things without really you know a
whole lot of a whole lot of specific
intent so description of the problem so
we know what's going on with this we
know that it has a history of a prior
repair attempt so that's really good a
guy started doing repair right so what
kind of things is that going to make us
start thinking about physical damage on
the board right now it means it could be
while he was swapping something and he
damaged something exactly that's really
common you know I mean these things are
tiny as you know right now the connector
or something like that could could
easily get mangled something like that
um the other thing is you know does it
have a history of water damage and duh
and this one does not
okay I'm it does it have a history of a
really bad drop because all of those
things sort of point you're thinking a
little bit differently
we talked earlier in another video bad
drop means that it could be a BGA
exactly that you could have yeah yeah
that and that's gonna be invisible
damage and the BGA chips these are the
large I see so the big like the big
black squares yes you're attached to the
board with a ball grid array rhythm of
solder balls and the solder balls can
crack yeah or the connection between the
board and the balls or the trip in the
balls you know so so that can crack and
what is that gonna look like on the
board nothing that's a rabbit hole you
know so there's you know the other thing
that I want to kind of point out is that
not all problems are solvable because of
chip density so sometimes in the iPhone
like if you look at this bear board you
know there's like so many chips that
will ultimately go on there that we
don't have the clearance that we need to
be able to replace all of them some of
them we're not going to be able to
source so we're not going to be able you
know even if we know what's going if the
main processor is that the holes really
not worth it exactly so certain repairs
are just not feasible the board may not
be worth the time that it would take to
troubleshoot to source it to develop the
technique to replace that chip you know
sorts of things especially in iPhones
with the underfill you know underfill is
like a big plate for us you know and I'm
sure that will kind of get a systematic
solution to that one day but right now
it's still sort of picking away at that
stuff which you know surrounds and cures
those BGA chips to the board so this is
where the answers form has been really
helpful
because it's a troubleshooting forum and
I know a lot of the the questions that
we all get the most excited about the
ones where you're playing doctor house a
little bit diving in were diagnosticians
with these things right and that is that
that is sort of the next key that you
know you want to kind of develop a sort
of physician like mindset a phone
physician where you can kind of get an
experience base of what are the common
failure points for each device and to
sort of help that guide you in your
overall goal of avoiding rabbit holes
which is those projects where you're
going to ultimately sink a ton of time
into it not be since days and days and
days right fix something right exactly
so this phone you know really jumped out
at me because it has a standard pattern
so in the iPhone 4s the iPhone 4s should
be able to boot off of the charger
without the battery and it does the
moment I disconnect the charger it loses
power exactly and the iPhone 5 5 s 6
they cannot boot off of the charger
without the battery they require the
battery so they sort of little
differences in things that you kind of
just sort of put together and learn so
because this one is able to come to a
full display and boot up fine but the
moment you disconnect the charger that
points to a classic problem with the
iPhone 4s and it has a weak point at the
battery connector itself all right
screen unplug it yep alright so now that
we know that this at least it fits a
pattern of common failures so now we're
going to kind of dig into that and
you're going to look at the you know the
battery the battery connector itself
let's take the battery out first and
measure it ok sounds good so I've got
the battery and this has been removed
before so there's not as much adhesive
on it right so that's the battery we
have our voltmeter here yes and I'm
setting the voltmeter just to the 20
volt range we know this is and by the
way a lot of your multimeters are going
to have I mean the tip is too big to get
into things so you're soldered on some
additional point right yellow points all
right so are we reading anything 0.01 so
the vet the batteries is absol
we definitely done so in an iphone the
battery needs to be you know 3.8 in
order to turn the phone on if the
battery is you know something like three
three point five volts or something like
that then you'll get like a low battery
icon and and and it will prompt you to
charge it back up if the battery is
fully charged like a hundred percent
it'll read like 4.1 volts something like
that if a battery is like two volts two
point nine six or something it may not
even have enough juice to turn on the
low battery icon so a zero point zero
zero volts is a stone dead as a doormat
dead battery so the phone sucked all the
juice didn't feed any more back into it
exactly that urging circuit on the phone
is just not functioning right or or the
battery can't talk to the phone at all
well I mean there's a lot of a lot of
when you see a battery that's that dead
here's what you can think one it's just
really old and it didn't hold its charge
at all I mean this could be this I mean
this is a 4s this could be years old
number two is that the phone could have
a short in it that has drained the
battery below what it would normally
kind of stop at and the other would be a
boot loop and that's would be my guess
in this phone where if a phone continues
to try to boot and to try to boot then
it will just zap a low battery to like a
stone dead bat okay so that's what
you're thinking when you have a stone
dead battery and all of that is part of
troubleshooting okay so um so now we
know a little bit about the battery
let's look at the battery connector
alright so this is the connector alright
does that look factory or prior repair
it and this looks like it's been
manipulated by somebody
this looks pretty yes Apple doesn't far
better job of soldering it okay now we
really want to see whether or not that
battery connector is good so one way we
could do it is to sort of test with a
multimeter for continuity and that's
something we didn't talk about before
we're continuity is just sort of
measuring does point a and B that are in
a circuit the same circuit actually
connect or there is my favorite tool on
here because it's easiest to use I just
touch things together in
beeps if you have a wire contact exact I
love this test yes
so it's and I use it a lot as well I
mean you can also kind of get away with
it my sort of measuring resistance to
ground but just hearing that beep allows
you to very quickly kind of move around
and see what's going on so um you know
so you could kind of you know look up on
the schematic and figure out like where
should the power pin talk to you know
where should the ground pin talk to
let's see if the ground pin talks to
ground so you can measure that by
putting one of those probes and it
really doesn't matter red or black on
any part of the frame so that's ground
vibrator shield so I'm getting nothing
there I'll just take this one for
custody so I'm getting nothing as you're
touching that do you feel movement in
that connector yeah yeah that yeah I
mean that's that's like clearly not very
poorly at at look at the look at the
little infant so this is clearly you can
see the solder moving so this is a cold
the solder is broken yeah yeah that's
nuts
and this is not attached right so there
so there we go away that that if you
plug the battery in there that that
battery is going to you know and so as I
look at this you know with with my naked
eye I can see a little bit maybe if I
know I'm looking for but once you throw
it under the microscope you can really
see the movement much much more clearly
yes yeah by the way going into this we
had no idea that this is the problem we
were just given this phone told somebody
to tried to fix it we didn't know how or
why right so this is our initial
diagnosis that we need to fix right well
and that's that's part of like kind of
pattern recognition with phones you know
that there's just that's a common
problem you know the iPhone 4s battery
connector pops off all the time you know
so just sort of knowing that knowing
these sort of little failure points in
every phone just like 5s gets blue
screen from the long trace damage you
know that iPhone 4s gets grayed out
Wi-Fi you know you can tell that a lot
by just looking at the repair manual on
iFixit and seeing what people are
talking about right talking about the
battery connector falling off up there
and you can look at the comments at the
bottom of guide you can also look in
answers for your device and kind of get
a feel for what very so you don't have
to have a repair shop where you're
getting lots and lots of experience you
can get
from the wisdom of the crowd I'm a
problem yeah okay so iPhone battery
connector I mean plastic connector or
maybe it could have been connected but
tether from the factory breaks a lot
during repairs it does so this is not a
surprise that right so this is like you
know that one of the first things that
you would be thinking of as phone
physician you know I I'm in a dead
battery situation now while we're
talking about this sort of you know
specifically the battery this is very
common for all all phones as well
generically those four pins are present
in all of the you know all the devices
because all devices need to get the same
information from the battery right you
know which is you know how much charge
is there left so that it can sort of
govern the charging cycle and then it
needs to know the battery temperature
and especially the battery temperature
if it can't get the battery temperature
because let's say that line is broken
either the connectors wrong some little
component in that line is knocked off
which is also very common with
fingernail damage disconnect connecting
batteries then the logic board will just
say I'm not going to you know allow this
to blow up if you can't tell me what
temperature you are we're shutting this
whole show down and that happens a lot
and that'll come up as a boot loop you
know where the where the you know the
starts it turns on it gets to the place
where it's gonna read the battery temp
freaks out yeah and you can you can get
a lot of information also from the log
so if you plug that into iTunes alright
not iTunes but if you plug it into some
sort of like third party you know reader
like I backup bhatta use a lot you can
sort of read the real-time logs where it
will sort of give you a real-time status
update things that's going on inside the
phone and you'll start to see errors gas
gauge error cannot get temperature for
gas can ikat Emperor Connecticut gas
gauge and then I'll just shut off and
then you know ah let me take a look a
hard look at my connector around the
area or sometimes that's how defective
batteries are like inside the battery
itself you know you don't even use in
the cab that maybe any shipping the
connector got damaged right yeah so
that's like a you know another sort of
failure would be the battery itself so
replacing the battery would be a good
stuff one as well okay so should we fix
this
yes so let's fix this so this thing
needs a this thing needs a new connector
or we could try to kind of solder that
connector you know
down there I think I have a new
connector here okay we've got the new
connectors that's probably gonna be
easiest it's just that these side of
that but then you connect around right
so we've got our connector here yep and
it's just particularly the left side of
that just looks demolished right so that
thing is attached by those four pins
plus two anchor pads that are sort of
less important the anchor pads are on
the back of the connector the anchor
pads don't do anything electrically
they're just there to sort of help stick
that connector in there all right so
this is the new connector we're going to
put on and we have here we've got these
four so those are our characters and
then on either side on the back of the
connector we've got a pad right okay so
those are right so those are serial heed
ifficult to solder because they're in
meshed in plastic so they're so that is
sort of difficult to solder it's not an
unreasonable strategy to say I'm going
to go for a good solid attachment on the
four pins and then I'm going to use like
a tiny toothpick dab of an adhesive to
secure the bottom of the connector we've
got the connector under the microscope
here and as we're looking at it you can
see underneath we have these resistors
here in these traces are going
underneath the board probably going to
the the gas and temperature gage sensors
here so right if you put the connector
on wrong it's very possible to damage
damage the traces on the brain now of
those four components that are right
there the schematic tells us that two of
them are resistors two of them are
capacitors and a capacitor and a
resistor does you know really different
things and that's also part of just kind
of general troubleshooting is learning
to recognize those components you know
just from experience I can look at that
and see that the capacitors are a little
bit more squarish in shape and the
resistors are a little bit more rounded
okay so in that set of four yeah those
two are capacitors that's capacitor
passive capacitor yes these are our
resistor yes and that's a capacitor yes
exactly so if you think about what a
capacitor does you know a capacitor has
one side connected to ground
and the other side connected to the line
usually in most in most in most cases so
what would happen if I were to say oh I
know you need to sort of you know jump
one of these what it's gone what I'm
just going to jump it then what's going
to be the consequence for the phone if I
jump a capacity to skip a capacitor it's
bad news because you'll short out the
line and right yeah if I connect a
capacitor which has one side on ground
and the other side connected to the line
and I connect that with a wire
I've shorted the line to ground and
that's a bad idea you shorted out the
phone's never you know that's bad
however these others so we pulled up the
schematic and and we are not able to
show you the schematic in this video
explain why in a second but we pull up
the schematic and we looked up the value
of these two resistors yeah it turns out
that they are zero ohm resistors right
yep so a zero ohm resistor if we're
measuring resistance zero that's not so
really they are just like they are in
fact jumpers you know they're just
they're placeholders to sort of you know
bridge those two pads in order to allow
flow through the line okay
so we've identified now we don't think
we're gonna have to replace any of those
components but it's helpful hopefully
you're not going to float them off so no
problem so I'm looking at this and just
by wiggling the board a little bit it
sure seems like the 72 pens are attached
and the two outside pins are really not
right so I mean if you want to we can
just sort of try to reflow reflow those
two those two onto the pad you know
probably it would be best to just
replace this connect okay so let's just
go ahead and replace the connect okay
now let me ask you a question before we
start about thermal mass when we when
we're trying to make joints and we're
going to apply heat to you know flow
solder with flux then the amount of heat
that you need to apply to those four
joints is going to be different which
one's going to take the least amount of
heat the joints that are going to take
the least either the ones that aren't
attached to the board well so let's
think about the actual trace in the
board okay so we so we know the trace on
the boards for the for the ground and
the so we know one is ground one is
power right and then one is gas gauge
and one is temperature so the Center two
aren't
you be attached to lines though there is
they're going to have a little tiny line
like a thin wire in the board this so so
continuing from the battery straight you
know on through the board to the power
chip or wherever they're going
that's a thin line so the amount of
thermal mass the amount of heat that
that line is going to require in order
to flow that joint is going to be
relatively low and that's a common
problem here when you arch this is like
a great place to start learning to
solder these are pretty big you'll find
it easy to flow the two center joints
like hard on the two outside ones
because the third because it's going to
take more temperature than yes okay and
now in terms of making sure that I'm not
heating us too much I don't heat other
components it's just like the moment I
can get it free I want to pull it loose
is that how do I make sure that I'm not
apologizing that's a really good
question so what's the downside of kind
of a mindset of I don't want to put too
much heat on this board so the second I
can I'm gonna rip it off what's this I
can't you could pull a pala yes
pulling off a pad and that does happen
and the reason why it's again with this
thermal mess you'll see that the two
Center ones will quickly get south will
become liquid if it's gum I'm ready I'm
going I'm taking it off and the two
outside ones are gonna rip off so you so
you really kind of want to err on the
side of you know getting getting them
sort of giving them all loose Praeger
now how could you know how could you
help yourself out to sort of reduce the
amount of heat that was required ah like
this I mean it's kind of a tough
question but you know when we need to
sort of flow a joint we can either
increase the temperature here or
increase surface area yep you could sort
of use yeah put the two tips together
for example okay or you could use a
bigger tip you know like we have a
couple like a monster tip like that or
you could you know reduce the amount of
heat required by making an alloy okay so
if you mixed in something that has a
limo smell yeah exactly
now what do you know about this solder
most likely since it's a prior
reparative so this is probably leaded
solder right probably not it's probably
going to mill cut them off yep so our al
flux add more flux okay so I need to add
flux to the system
we have our flux gun or milk syringe
here okay so we're going to flux all
around now let me let me make another
point here because this is the 4s and
I've done this I've learned this the
hard way
okay you are working on top of the
screen right now okay so you know we
could take this board out to do the
repair and and you know if you're
careful you can work on it in sort of
you know that's when I say - yeah I say
that all the time like you know so yes
we're gonna we're gonna do that but you
just sort of be mindful in amaizing by
the flux of that given you want to be
mindful that if you get a drop of flux
or alcohol that goes down off of this
board it's going to be dropping onto the
backlight pages and then you'll have a
white spot on your screen okay
so we'll be very careful with the amount
of lots of flux on all of the joints and
now yep so if you're doing this at home
you might want to take the board out if
you're planning to save this phone and
use this phone and don't want to replace
the screen so that you don't get a drop
on the backlight
you're drifting
okay okay good all right well that was a
bit harder than I was expecting it to be
because I kept moving from one connector
to the next and I'd get it loose Nydia
the next one and that would right okay
so you know if you use the quick alloy
that would that's a good way to kind of
make it easier on yourself so I can
modify the melting point of the solder
that's there you can kind of make them
all really flowy so that you just sort
of like go back and forth no come on and
you can see I put a mangle this
connector pretty good this is the
connector that I took off and it's
pretty pretty toast at this point yep
okay ah so now we want to attend your
pad so we're going to braid and then you
know to kind of clean them up we don't
really know what's on there so you're
going to kind of get them back to back
to the basics all right somebody's ass
other braid the suck up the saw that's
on here yep so use flux more flux with
that and then you're going to use you're
going to put some heat on that copper
with flux and so put the flux on the
copper itself or the board it didn't
matter hmm
well we're trying to keep flux off of
the boards yeah I put it on here all
right
got it there and now we're going to
okay you can kind of like rock it back
and forth so I think that this this
repair as well is a really great place
to start because it's sort of there's
only four pads they're relatively big
and it really sort of introduces you to
this concept of thermal mass sure and
that you know that you really have to
just sort of have a feel and pay
attention to how the board is responding
and you can't just predict that like
every pad is the same so you know if I
if I flow one pad the next one's going
to be exactly the same so as I'm working
my way along I am able to use the the
flux a bit as a paintbrush to kind of
work my way through and it's interesting
it kind of keeps soldering itself down
and then I heat it up and it Dease
others and I'm just cleaning this up and
I'm trying to make them look square and
happy and it's just a little bit of a
repetitive I mean just like cleaning a
counter or something but yeah it's just
much much smaller so that one pad that's
the ground and we remember from looking
at the battery just that's a giant
highway of copper you know that's
sucking your heat away from your joint
and therefore so that's why that's why
it's yeah it's all muddy looking and
it's you know and that's tough so I have
been trying and trying to get this pad
clean and it just won't come clean then
over here I'm gonna give you a tiny why
don't we use the leaded side okay
because that's something that more
people will have it okay we have this is
a bismuth alloy Sawyer that's designed
for this sort of thing but I just don't
think very many people are going to have
access to it so I want to try it using
anything it's a bit more common so the
reasonable normal solder and I put the
foot on the solder itself or do I need
to put it on the pad here put the
souther on the pad or the flux on the
pad yeah if at the pad would be good you
know so if you've been struggling with
something for a while then you want to
kind of look back at your tips I'm you
know take a look at him before you know
you you know have they gotten just all
crusty and oxidize as you've been sort
of like you know kind of working on
something or are they okay they're okay
okay and then you want to you know check
like is my flux all completely dried too
crispin and and horrifying you know so
kind of keep that in mind as something
sort of begins to feel a bit like worked
on okay there you go so I add a little
bit more yep solder to it and I clean
the solder off my tip what we will we'll
give it a shot here have this one more
shot yeah and with the mini tweezers
putting the two together gives you that
extra extra heat so so I'm I've got my
braid on here and I've replaced it with
the new solder and let's see how good a
job I'm doing that's a lot better that's
looking quite a bit better there we need
to I think you want to clean that flux
off because that's pretty gummy for
making it nice new joka so I have our
bottle of isopropyl alcohol here now be
careful with that so we definitely want
to let that that on a q-tip yes
okay look at that after those look good
so now you're ready to tin your pads and
the goal is that when we do place the
new connector you're just going to flow
the pre tin pads onto the connector okay
now you're thinking that you want to
keep in mind is that you like them to
all be relatively even because flux is
you know the purpose is to kind of keep
as you're putting that heat there to
prevent that you know quick oxidation
and you know get everything evenly
liquid and then make a nice joint so how
do I get the saw to get down onto the
pad that's a good question you know one
strategy is to you know that you can
kind of like file file your tips if you
put those two tips together you'll
create more heat at the at the bottom
you can do that touch the pad and then
feed the solder into it that's good
there you go and that one's going to
take a you know kind of more a little
bit longer but it worked
okay so we've kind of learned that the
left pad there is the ground yes it
takes longer to heat up bands okay I was
expecting it didn't make that much
longer okay now those are would you
describe those as sort of flat and
beaded or like the mountains no the
right ones are so Rocky Mountains and
the Appalachians there so try the yeah
so you want to try to just sort of you
know flow them yeah to a nice little
rounded pen you kind of like swipe
across it it'll there you go yes
how's that that's good so now let's
place the new connector we've got the
new connector on tweezers yep once you
get the connector placed you're going to
move it up then you'll want to sort of
put the tweezers on pins two and three
and just kind of hold it there so that
you can kind of come along and solder a
lot of this is learning hand-eye
coordination is both of these tweezers
in this plate right so you're going to
want to apply downward pressure as
you're soldering so I would recommend
turning that so that it fits your hand
really comfortably and then grabbing
from the inside of the connector pins
two and three and then kind of holding
them with downward pressure and you can
use the other tweezers to kind of help
get it exactly where you want
so about there okay and then can you can
kind of continue holding that and then
with your right hand you know you can
use those yep you can try that first in
it so touch touch it to the to the
slaughter with the tweezers holding it
in place you probably want to get your
tweezers on there first because you you
want to not like you know burn up the
flux that's inside the the solder all
right from there
now do pins two and three because
they'll be easier
all right don't do it with us with this
with those all right good
all right that's good okay now yeah so
now when you do it let's have you hold
the pin with the tweezers as you flow it
yeah yep now you want to get down at the
bottom and not be you don't want to do
this like you know quote Eric who may or
may not have actually been the one that
was doing this who you want to get the
bottom pad and flow it up from the pad
you want to flow you know you can you
can add more flux if it's if if you are
having trouble getting it to flow where
you want it to go yep so you want to see
that the pad on the bottom move yeah
flowing and you know ultimately you'll
be able to will be able to sort of test
continuity and then you'll know whether
or not it's a good joint that looks
pretty good
all right let's go back feels reasonably
so okay let's go back and reflow that
one too a nice-looking joint yep so try
to get down on the pad good good that's
good all right so this pin I lose it I
pushed it this way should I try to pull
it back out or just but I think that's
okay there good good that one's good
okay I know that one will take a little
bit more and this is the power pin good
okay
all right now inspection so again like
if we take the time to take the board
out it would be a lot easier to sort of
tip it on its side and kind of inspect
those joints I'm not sure about the
third one correct so they look you've
got it on the other throwing look good
so let's reflow that one from the bottom
I have connected three of these well the
other one you can still see lit by the
copper on so we got to keep working on
yep so let's reef have you reflow that
just to make it a good strong lasting
joint bill flux to it flux is always
good
okay that one might have been just a
little bit light on the original tinning
yeah so take a look at it from the side
and see if we got it that looks good
yeah that looks great I bet it's gonna
work now we can just you know go ahead
and put battery in it for testing but we
might want to kind of just take a second
just while while it's open especially if
we've taken out the board and it's going
to be kind of a pain to go ahead and put
this on you know continuity testing and
again this is where the schematic comes
in really handy if you know where those
lines are supposed to connect to on the
board you can actually you know test for
continuity to make sure that you're
getting that connection that you think
you need for us we can tell just that
pins two and three should connect to the
capacitors down there okay so and then
pin I forget if it's 1 or 4 is ground
and then the other one should connect to
those test points I think yep do that
yes okay and then this is going to be
one of these in their capacities and
we're just not sure which one it should
be it should connect to the top of the
capacitor that's at the bottom of that
row of 4 no yeah that
okay good and it's not going to connect
on the other side of the capacitor
because it's right exactly exactly all
right so I have successfully we think I
think with a new battery connector on
there we have the old battery that's
dead as doornails this is the OEM apple
battery but we don't really trust it so
we're going to use a new iFixit battery
threw it in here yep now let's see if
that no batteries usually come with a
little bit of charge in them so let's
just sort of test we're going to put
this back on the voltage V with the line
through it very easy we'll put it on
twenty because we're expecting it to be
you know somewhere around you know
hopefully three point eight what is it's
a four point oh one so that's gonna be
you know a charged up battery where this
battery was reading zero volts that's
reading 4.0 fantastic okay so let's
connect this thing on right now be
careful of the connector gentle be
gentle with it because remember we
didn't connect the anchor points that's
true and so you know if it we can test
it that's fine but later we would want
to come back and you know clean it up
and put a little bit of adhesive
okay that sounded good you can see it's
a little bit crooked I didn't get
completely straight on there but that's
okay that's okay yeah woman the truth
well this fun before it could not power
off battery the moment you pulled out
the the charger it would come off let's
see what happens ah I see an apple but
let make sure that it boots up and on
more importantly with a battery
connector job I want to make sure that
it doesn't boot loop because it can't
get back to the castle and what's your
information exactly yeah there you go
iPhone iPhone hey that's exciting that's
right so now this phone is ready for us
to use in our water damage video okay so
what we have done here was we took a
phone that was plug II when you plugged
it in it worked fine everybody thought
it was okay the moment you disconnected
the power the it couldn't touch it or it
couldn't talk to the bench and we knew
there was some kind of connectivity
problem with the battery we tested the
battery and the battery ruse was dead
right so we're like okay well we have to
investigate the charge port take a look
at the charge port and it's clear that
there's been a previous repair or
there's some kind of physical damage to
the charge port so we go through the
battery connector yes right to the
battery connector inside the okay so so
we put on a new battery connector yep
and we were able to test for continuity
on either side of it put a new battery
in well test the new battery we know the
battery is good put it in the phone and
it works yeah learned about the
multimeter and learned about how paying
attention to thermal mess really helps
you in your story it really does make a
big difference in the amount of heat
that you apply you have to heat those
those other pens for much much longer
than this right I mean one of the most
common problems that a beginning
Microsoft or is going to face is pulling
off pads and then you know that really
stinks because you can ruin a device you
know so so that's mostly going to be
caused by not heating it enough yanking
it right by assuming that if you see
liquid flow on one pad that there
already and then you rip it off too soon
and that was challenging was challenging
to get all four at the same time so I
ended up kind of tearing the old
connector a process of getting high but
I think that was better than applying
too much force and
yeah and low milk can help you know if
you're struggling yep
fantastic well this has been hugely
informative and I'm excited to continue
along my journey learning about how to
repair these these things at the very
small level the next video that we get
do we're going to be investing in
weather damage
yes that's huge yeah water damage yep so
thanks so much for following along I'm
Kyle with iFixit subscribe to the
channel for updates and we're going to
keep posting more awesome micro Sol ring
repair I can't tell you how how good I
feel about myself right now I've never
done anything about this before I've
never done anything like this before
you're two for two
Thanks alright