hi I'm Kyle with iFixit and I'm here
with Jesse Jones from iPad rehab and she
has a whole bunch of equipment here
she's gonna teach us how to use okay so
I have always wanted to learn more about
kind of my croissant and a very crude
soldering on my car on some larger
electronics but never on anything as
small as an iPhone yes so you do need to
have sort of you know specialty
equipment and really when people kind of
want to go from general repair to
actually doing micro soldering repairs
you know investment in quality equipment
is the number one thing that I would
recommend for success because it really
helps you to figure out your if you're
using good equipment to start with then
that sort of lets you sort of know that
it's not the equipment problem right you
know and then as you kind of build your
skills up then you know it's just that
much easier if you start out with like
you know equipment that's not working
well or very variable yeah it can be
really difficult to kind of build your
skills and that's unintuitive because
you start out and you're like well I
don't know if is I'm gonna do this I'm
just gonna buy the cheapest tool right
see if it works right and then you fail
and you feel like it's your fault
right so might be better to try to
borrow some good equipment from somebody
but really it really is and you know
this stuff has like a really excellent
resale value you know so you can kind of
go to the use market place and kind of
pick something up try it if you if it's
not for you sell it you know I mean it
really is worth it to start with the
good stuff sounds good so what do we
have here okay so let's start with the
common tool the soldering iron so this
is um the this this blue and yellow
stuff is all Jaco branded so this is the
soldering iron base station yep so
that's the station and this one is a
dual port station so I can plug in two
different tools here so it is the FM 203
and that's what I use you know everyday
in my mail and repair business and I can
use it to power one of these hand tools
this is a just standard iron and with
your standard iron you can get a variety
of different tips you know so we can
kind of look under the microscope
actually to see okay so that's that's
your like normal everyday tip that
you've got on
oops this is yeah this tip is good for
certain things it's a little bit you
know small it's a chisel tip okay um and
I so it's a little bit rounded at the
end yeah you know I can use this for um
you know kind of some standard
desoldering it would be a great size
right here for this connector okay if I
was soldering on a connector onto this
board something but it's a lot smaller
than a typical soldering iron yes it's a
lot smaller than this you know this is a
typical soldering iron that does not go
with this station okay and if we kind of
look at the one from our teardown
workshop yes well so you can see that's
a lot larger right so that's a much
bigger tip in that one okay um you know
and that's okay you know you want to
have the sort of the right size tip for
each job and that's going to kind of be
a trade-off between how much heat you
need to transfer to that component in
the board versus your clearance you know
especially when you're working on cell
phones you know the clearances are
really really tight so that's why you
kind of need like you know really good
tools that can deliver a lot of heat in
a really tiny tip so what's the
difference between a a cheap soldering
iron and jaco is it how quickly it
reheats
part of it yeah I mean you heard the
sort of beep when we plug that in so
you're you know you're Jaco station is
going to just heat up your tip really
quickly you can switch between tips
really really quickly you know if you're
using sort of your you know inexpensive
iron it's going to heat up to maybe not
the same temperature all the time it's
going to take a long time and it's you
know you'll just sort of notice in the
kind of the feel of how quickly heats up
how reliably heats up and what it feels
like when you're actually thought organ
board got it so they'll both both heat
up but this maybe allows you to switch
tools a little fast yes and that's and
that's you know something that you
definitely want to do so I've got a
couple other hand pieces here this is my
favorite tool and I think I use this for
ninety percent of what I do this these
are called the Jaco mini hot tweezers
Elkin two zero two three and they come
so we like a tweezer it is I don't like
my tweezer here exactly what it will
burn you right so this is great if you
you know if you just kind of really
think about the actual you know kind of
physical job of
hang of a small component that's on the
board like a capacitor or filter a
resistor that has that soldered on two
pads you know being able to sort of heat
both pads and pinches it off is is great
you know it can you know as opposed to
just sort of you know trying to hit one
side on the other side one side on the
other side you know it's easy to social
got something with four pads would you
would you built to and like lift it off
a little and then do the next two I can
show you an example of that when we kind
of you know start actually doing some
soldering but you could just sort of you
know kind of go across or down the
character like this this you know kind
of spot here on the board you know if I
was desoldering um here I could just
sort of pinch and go down that kind of
clearly okay oh yeah that makes sense
good so you just in a swiping motion
your desoldering as you go right and so
it nice you have two contact points
instead of just one yes and what's the
other reason that I that I like this
tool and not everybody does one thing
I've noticed in the Microsoft community
is that everybody kind of gets their own
style you know and so you do sort of
want to just try things and see what
works for you
the reason I like this tool is because I
can you know kind of come in here and
just use one side of it one side of
tweezer can or I could put them together
and get twice and then I would have yes
twice as much heat and you'll notice
when we start soldering that the thermal
mass of the workpiece is really
different even on different pads okay
and we'll look at that when we look at
one of these sort of f3 charge port
boards so it's like welding if you're
welding a different material I mean the
thickness of the material completely
change it it does how it flows right and
that's like one of the things people
struggle with you know like you kind of
assume if you look at you know like a
bunch of pads in a in a row you'll
assume that you know you can just if I
can hit this one and it flows and hit
the next one it flows why isn't it
flowing on the third one and the answer
is because well that one's probably
connected to ground sensors the
grounders yeah so it's like just going
to suck up so much heat you know and
then that's that's one of the sort of
you know problems that that will kind of
teach you how to deal with in our little
soldering series you got it okay so and
then another tool that I use a lot is
the
tiniest thing that you can get which is
the micro pencils this is another jaco
product and it's another handpiece it
can also plug into my it's just a
smaller soldering iron yes it's a it's
the tiniest thing is 0.1 millimeter tip
okay and you know one of the things that
I've kind of learned to do that's about
the size of our pentalobe driver right
at the end of that yeah okay and then
you can see that it's no longer like
perfectly round um I have filed this tip
let's see if I can kind of rotate it for
you a little bit maybe so I actually got
these things yeah that's exactly what a
UPI visitor I fix it yeah file sale set
alright yep so you know what solder
loves is copper okay and solder also
loves heat so if you look at a tip you
know even even the tip that's that's a
like this one here mm-hmm
where is this tip hottest close to the
very bottom end of it or sort of back
I'll back up there yeah exactly so if I
were to dip this thing in solder decide
what sort of my life here right and if
I'm trying to like you know make the tip
work it's a struggle right so one sort
of strategy that you can use is you can
actually file you know like I just sort
of start filing right there and I can
actually kind of expose a little bit of
the copper core okay and that will help
the solder to stay right at the very end
it does shorten your tip life but it can
really help you sort of create that
perfect shape with the perfect flow so
that you can do the tiniest stuff like
the 5s blue screen of death trace repair
okay you've got seven traces and that
are all in the design you know the size
of like you know a millimeter square box
okay and you got it give them that get
those guys tack down without lifting the
other ones you know then then this is
the go-to tool for that okay fantastic
alright so now let's talk about solder
itself so um so we got together our
soldering iron we gather this is a
pencil yeah my pencil yeah micro pencil
we've got our hot tweezers yep and now
we're going to take a look at our
ammunition oh yeah
exactly so so solder comes in different
flavors and you know this is something
where you know there's sort of my
approach to my croissant is practical
micro sorry what practically makes sense
and that might be a little bit different
than sort of industrial manufacturing
and what makes sense to make sort of the
you know the perfect most sort of
certifiable strong joint you know that
meets the requirements to the letter of
the law so if you take any board you
know like this is Samsung s3 board the
new regulations say that they can't use
the good stuff the goods go Uslan they
can't use this you know leaded
old-school solder they have to use the
lead free and lead-free is you know it's
kind of like a square peg in a round
hole you know it's just difficult it
works but it's it's much harder to work
with right and all the electronics
manufacturers are the really hard time
shifting right LED free solder the
military electronics manufacturers still
use LED led they solder because they're
exempt from the regulations it's so
where it's legal to do it everybody is
as leaded solder right yeah so when
you're doing your work you prefer to use
the low mill and when I do my world I
use let it solder because what I care
about is getting the device back on the
road I don't care about the device you
know going going to sort of survive a
trip on the space shuttle
you know like sure I care about
somebody's iPhone turning back on so
they can continue to play candy crush I
don't care about okay so maybe when
you're done you wash your hands
yeah and i try i don't lick it you know
and I don't let my kids like it you know
yeah I mean that's that's that's I mean
it's safety has no quitting time all
right okay all right yeah so now so
don't eat the solder yes so but to
lead-free solder that's the stuff that's
on there so we are kind of working with
that you know because that's what's
already on there and this has a higher
melting temperature so it's going to
take more heat to flow a red free joint
it's going to take something you know to
the tune of like two hundred and
seventeen degrees of heat in order to
get this stuff to flow 10 base solder so
then okay let it solder is going to have
a lower melting temperature and that's
going to help us if we you know are
trying to flow like a difficult joint
that maybe does have a high thermal mass
it with a tiny clearance so we can only
use a tiny tip you know then by adding
the
did solder that sort of makes an ally
and it brings down the melting
temperature of the joint okay and then
to go even one step further is this
stuff so what's the melting temperature
on this
that's like 185 or some 183 if it's the
6337
you know okay let it let it suffer all
right and then you've got this for
extreme situation yeah this is called
removal alloy or low melt solder so this
is kind of this is like think it's
bismuth mixed in so it's an alloy and if
you mix this into the joint it'll really
bring down the melting temperature of
the whole joint to something like you
know 137 138 okay some of that's very
low it is very low bismuth is expensive
though yes it is yeah so this is like
you know 50 bucks worth of stuff so you
only use a little bit and you know if
you think about that joint it's really
not very strong at 138 degrees and so
you you use this to sort of remove a
component but then you have to remove
this in order to be able to place a new
component okay
so how do you remove solder solder
love's heat and copper copper yes so
this is copper braid yes so we've got
copper braid and we can use heat and
I'll definitely use this before and it's
just amazing it's like water flowing
uphill yes it just decides to migrate
onto it that's right yeah and solder
loves copper solder love seat so if you
give it heat and copper that's where
it's going to go okay yeah so you can
use this to sort of replace whatever
solder is on the board so you can kind
of change lead-free to let it you can
change your removal alloy your low melt
to a regular or whatever using burr and
these always come on the roll but you
can cut off whatever length is
convenient for your workspace and it's
not crazy expensive yes you can use a
lot of it yes now let's talk about what
solder hates okay let's copper but it
hates oxidation so oxidation is the is
like kind of the biggest problem in
making a joint and oxidation is sort of
always present you know even if you have
your tip is free from oxidation because
you always sort of keep a little bit of
solder on it and you replace that every
time you use it there's still going to
be a little bit of oxidation there and
the moment you expose any al
- err instantly yes yes oxygen in the
air and heat you know speeds everything
up so something that's hot is going to
get sort of this layer of oxide on it
something that's been sitting around you
know something that even you know if it
has been exposed to water whoa that's a
lot of oxidation yeah so so so any water
damage board you're gonna have a hard
time soldering on it until you yes and
generally right yeah so so every joint
that you make you have to kind of get
rid of oxidation in order to be able to
make the joint you know at all and the
magical tool that gets rid of oxidation
is flux okay
so flux is stuff that we use is made of
rosin which comes from I think pine
trees or something
okay and now this looks like you're
about to ah you know somebody yeah it's
good for you file or you're basing a
turkey or something
yeah okay I've never seen flux in a
syringe syringe like that yeah
yep well you know it helps you really
kind of place it exactly where you want
it to go now flux itself can be
corrosive over time so you know even
though this stuff is sort of no clean
tacky flux and you still you know you
apply it in order to remove the oxide
from the joint but it's almost like
you're preventing oxygen from getting
into the joint while you're soldering
guy because it itself is a sort of you
know it's like I would close and see
yeah exactly right exactly same thing
here's a tip for Thanksgiving I know
your wife is a chef so she probably
already knows this but um if you you
know if you take potatoes and you chop
them up they'll turn brown right just
like that reaction is requires oxygen
yes so if you you know of course it's
your job to peel potatoes yeah
Thanksgiving yep so if you peel them all
and you put them under water y'all can
leave them on on you know you can leave
them out overnight and they're not
pictures the same thing with guacamole
yeah exactly yeah so you just sort of
deprive it of oxygen same thing going on
with the flux solder joint oxygen off of
the joint exactly so flux is a great is
a great does a great job of removing
oxidation from the joint and then
preventing it from reoxidized while your
solder
and it helps the you know it's just sort
of like a magical substance that just
helps the solder to flow and make a and
make a good joint which means the
molecules of the solder actually forming
an alloy with the copper to make that
strong joint that's going to last ochem
flux is absolutely required and when one
who we were talking at our practical
board repair school of all these sort of
funny t-shirt slogan ideas and one of
them was just add more flux add more
flux okay so you've been using this
microscope here and we've got the camera
on the microscope explain to me a little
bit about what's different about this
microscope okay so microscope is
essential for Micro soldering so when
you're on this scale you know you really
you really need to have a microscope
what I like about this particular
microscope this is an AM scope there are
other similar brands I like this one
because it has a variable magnification
so some of the microscopes just sort of
have you know one stop or the other
either 10x or 30 X I so this is
extremely useful and I use this all the
time to sort of adjust you know where I
where I'm looking at a at a joint um
this has a a double boom stand which
gives it a lot of stability but it does
make it sort of a little bit more
difficult to sort of freeze and lower
like I can see from that image that we
need to adjust our high their better to
get height a little bit to get that you
know the focus is all about how hot what
your distance is from working sir yes so
working distance you know that's also
going to be kind of you know so you have
enough rear your hands under there and
your soldering iron exactly yeah so here
we go let's try to crisp that up a
little bit that looks a little bit
better yeah well this is great so so
these are all the pieces tools that you
need to get into micro sorry yes flux
solder quality quality soldering iron
and then you're really going to help
yourself out if you avoid getting cancer
so you're going to use a fume extractor
because the flux burns up it's not
really the sod
you're not really inhaling wet but the
flux fumes can cause like an
occupational asthma you know so if
you're going to be doing this every day
you need to invest in at least one of
those kind of like you know smoke
absorber if not a full sort of fume
extraction kit and then the other thing
that's really going to help you out that
we didn't talk about is the source of
hot air so hot air this or a rework
station which will allow you to shoot
out hot air very quickly if it's a
quality brand very reliably if it's a
quality brand it will allow you to shoot
out hot air that will enable you to do
repairs that that you can't do with just
a soldering iron for example if you
wanted to sort of remove a bigger chip
like a math book board you know where
you need to sort of do something where
you need to heat a lot of things at once
right exactly
moving the soldering iron from one trace
to another right you know like it one of
the sort of like a big chip like that
you know on the board okay you know if I
I could remove something like that so
that's often I'll see people and they've
got the depth of tweezers and they've
got the hot air station and okay yes yes
so honey is maybe start with a song iron
and move it work your way up to a rework
station if you're doing more yep or
higher you know some people use hot air
sort of in general because hot air
itself remember that you know a
component is going to go to you know
solder sort of like solder it likes
copper so if you put hot air heat on it
it's going to sort of move by itself to
its pads and make a good connection so
some people that are like exclusively
without it yes yeah it can it can work
really well alright so we have all of
our tools here and we have a baird board
so this is like a bear board in the
iPhone factory boards coming along and
then they would use a pick-and-place
robot to place everything right but we
don't have a robot so we're going to do
it ourselves right yep it's a great
place to practice when you first kind of
get your equipment and you're excited to
try it out and you you kind of want
something to work on you know it's hard
to find things that are really on this
scale super tiny micro scale so this is
a good thing to buy these boards are not
expense
and we can just kind of try to replace
the digitizer connector so what I have
here is a iPhone okay
5s actual digitizer connector that you
know you'd snap your screen into and
we're going to try to place it on this
bear board so all of the you know yellow
dots on the board that's all the exposed
copper and you know if we kind of really
look at this board we can get a lot of
information you can see that the you
know these are called pads and they are
made of copper so they're going to love
solder but the whole thing is covered
with a mask here you can see I'm kind of
scraping that here a little bit yeah so
you can see the Casta the whole thing is
copper but it's coated with a conformal
coating that protects the parts of the
board that we don't want to solder to so
we kind of have to sort of keep that in
mind as we're working all right so now
the first step is to apply flux and what
its flux gonna do flux prevents
oxidation that's right it's gonna take
take away any three oxidation getting on
it sort of already on there okay just
sort of in general you know all
soldering I ever do starts with flux add
more flux when you're having trouble all
right now we're going to before we
attempt to place the connector we're
going to tin the pads so that means
we're going to put a little layer of
solder on all of these pads and I'm
going to use the mini hot tweezers
because they're my fav so I'm going to
tin the pads you're just taking a little
bit of solder yep so I've got a little
bit of solder and I'm just sort of going
to touch it to the to the tip and you
know this is pretty easy
she's working we're going to touch the
and it's just kind of a sideways motion
and just touching it very briefly you
know I could even do so you're putting a
solder on to the toilet on here okay
like that
whoops I just lost a pen that's okay um
then we're just gonna and Y are you
adding the solder to the tweezers
themselves and then it rolls down onto
the pad
that's a really good question you know
ideally you're trained to not do that to
not put the solder on the on the
tweezers and to instead to first you
know kind of you know ideally put the
hot tweezer you know near a pad and then
touch the solder and do it like that
okay however you know the reason why
you're going to try to do it that way is
because this solder has flux inside it
and if I kind of tin it over here you
can see that the flux sort of you know
burns away right and that's sort of you
know and now it's just kind of sitting
there oxidizing you can actually see it
if I look you know just at that tip now
under the microscope does that look you
know like it's ready to make a nice
beautiful joint no it's all it's all
black box dyes in black right so in
practice though at this scale and this
is a part again where it's sort of
practical my croissant in practice you
really can't at this tiny little scale
really keep your you know hot iron over
here and kind of touch the joint and
feed the solder into it you know so in
practice what you end up doing is just
kind of being you know kind of you know
quick about it and you can just kind of
like I'm doing right now I'm touching
those those pads to flow them and then
every now and then I will clean off
using you know some copper wire to clean
the oxidized solder off and kind of
start over okay you know and then if I
feel like this board is you know doesn't
have enough flux I can add more flux if
my flux begins to get gummy I can
replace it by cleaning it off with
alcohol and you can just sort of tin
these pads just like I did
now a lot of times you'll you know
you'll get into this situation like
right here so here you know we have a
problem where there's a pad that has
that has lifted this is probably you
know like a good example of you know
well geez now are you gonna do you no
good now you're stuck now you're you're
a broke luck you know rock the phone I'm
gonna have to buy this guy a new 5s good
thing it was only a one dollar board um
so I can try to stick this sucker back
down and if I can't you know that's okay
because I can just make a little jumper
ultimately okay yeah I can kind of nudge
it back into sleep now it's back all
right now it's fine and I just need to
make sure that it sort of electrically
sound and it and it is you know the pin
opposed to this trace here okay that's
fine
great okay so now I'm going to use some
alcohol and clean off all looks yes cuz
now that flux is kind of getting gummy
I'm just gonna flux will kind of dry out
over time yeah kind of you know it will
as it sort of gets heated it will turn
like the the liquid part of it will
evaporate off and it will just sort of
leave behind the solid part of it so it
turns like a gummy viscous sheriff Duff
so use alcohol and then we're cleaning
it off and now it is the solder going to
start oxidizing that immediately as soon
as we well that's okay because we'll be
using flux again but you know it's not
going to sort of you know we're never
like cool it's not one else's eyes as
fast right it's not going to be
something that we have to kind of like
worried about the stopwatch now for this
actual job that we're doing which is a
connector placement the thing that we do
kind of care about is are these pads
even you know because what do you think
would happen if one of them kind of had
like a little mountain of solder when we
go to try to place the connector
connector all set off skew yeah exactly
so so that's sort of what we care about
so let's inspect you know so we can kind
of inspect the
joints and you know this is a great use
for hot air because hot air is really
great at kind of you know being a tool
that will sort of flow all these joints
at once they can put a little bit of
flux fresh flux across here we can turn
this back on and this is also a great
way to learn how to use your hot air
station because you want to kind of you
know one of the questions I get a lot is
what temperature are you setting that in
order to do this repair it and the
answer is a seven yeah so you know you
want to you want to kind of um well it's
gonna be how long you're holding it on
the surface right yeah it's how far you
are it's the size of your nozzle you
know this is a four millimeter nozzle if
it was the two or the six would be
completely different so whatever I set
the station it kind of doesn't matter
you know so you like with your station
that you're going to be using it's kind
of like your you know your new BFF which
I kind of go on a couple dates sure and
you want to just sort of learn how it
behaves in your hands you know so in
this one a good way to do that is to do
something like we're going to do here
which is to just beat up some pads so
I've got some flux on here now when I
just sort of apply hot air we can watch
and see what happens
so they should melt and kind of even at
themselves yes even themselves out
exactly let's pay attention to this
bottom one down here let's see if you
guys can see so this one right there
that's a little uneven okay so let's see
what happens you know and I can see how
the flux is sort of blowing off this
board a little bit too a little bit
faster than I'd like
so I'm going to turn turn the flow down
a little see a both flow and temperature
yes so we can say well blow less father
air yeah
yep and then I can apply that and just
sort of watch me burn up your magnet
board up there we go here goes yeah just
kind of yeah that's great now it's nice
and either we also are I'm ready to
ready to go so that's off surprise we
have a freshly ten board now we have we
have put solder evenly across all of
them we use the rework station yes to
even out some of the camo beat up our
pads okay great so now they should be
all nice and ready ready and relatively
flush or relatively tall you know this
sounds off the board okay so we can kind
of see just sort of hell
that looks pretty good and as we go
we're exposing some of the copper on the
board and that's okay that's okay you
know I think that uh you know when
you're sort of working with a with a
board that is already been tinned like a
you know like an actual board you know
then you're not going to be sort of like
tinting these pads then you you won't
see sort of that you won't see that
solder mask come off so easily
okay but it's okay all right so now it's
time to actually place the connector so
I'm going to stick that stick that guy
on there and I'm using two tweezers that
gives me a lot of control and I'm just
then I'm looking at it under the
microscope and I'm going to ultimately
just try to line it up to sit on those
pads and then I'm going to hold it in
place with the
with the tweezers so this is the part
that takes some patience you can do it
you will get that there
you just got a key pal here you could
say well why don't you use hot air then
it'll just sort of go into place
magically by itself and you could do
that except this guy's made out of
plastic and it will the hot air will
melt it exactly we ran into that problem
repairing ipads all the time where you
have you're trying to heat up the other
the other frame and you have the home
button then it's made of plastic and if
you heat it up too much you melt the
home button right so hot air in general
you kind of you can do it you know but
it's it's you know really easy to just
sort of mess up the plastic it was a
connector all right it looks like it's
kind of bumping a while something's
about be there so I'm playing quite a
bit of pressure there at the top I don't
know if that's the top for you guys or
not it's the bottom for you guys then
I'm going to just go ahead and flow that
pad once I get it on there so this is
like the first tag first time we go so
this is like a welding tack the first
one will kind of hold it in place and
then you can let go now I'm going to go
down to the opposite side okay so now
we're kind of pivoting around that first
joint okay now we get our second tack on
once we get that you should be a lift
the tweezers and yeah it'll be in place
yeah so that's there we go reasonably
aligned for me so I'm going to take some
solder and hold it in the tweezer okay
and then I'm just going to kind of go
down go down the row so I'm holding some
solder here in the tweezer and I'm just
going to flow those joints
so we're working our way through and
just one of the time and so you can see
the solder go on to the the LEAs up had
the wire on the connective pad and pin
pens
okay not is the bottom and the so each
pin flows so as you touch it the solder
is flowing upstream up onto the pen yes
off of the pad yep
okay now we're sort of at our you know
problem pad so this one we want to
really pay attention to and that's where
it's nice to have the variable like
zoomable magnification wow yeah you can
really see that yeah you can totally
really see that and also I think it
probably helps this camera because it
has less light so I'm going to sort of
sure prove that pad and it makes the
contrast a little bit better if you
moved it with the tweezers I moved in
with my regular tweezers just to make
sure because I want to just kind of make
sure that this is a this ends up being a
good joint and you know a lot of a lot
of this is just sort of like you know
having common problems and then figuring
out you know solutions to those problems
well that's where the more that you can
practice with something that isn't your
actual repair yeah easier it will be
yeah and just you know there's no
substitute for just sort of time in the
seat here with this stuff you know
you're just going to make every joint
it's yeah it doesn't take a lot you
don't want to sort of go up on top of
the connector if you have a connector
another problem you might have is that
the connector is miss seated a little
bit or it's a little bit high or a
little bit low and then you can use the
cold tweezers to sort of press down on
the pin I'm flipping this around to do
the other side and that will help it
make that make a good joint so we're
going to do the other side exactly the
same I'm going to check and sort of say
is my flux like two gummy do I have
enough
and I think the answer is it's not too
gummy and I do have enough so I can
continue on if I've been struggling with
it for a while then I might want to just
get some alcohol replace replace all of
that flux you know I can look at my tip
does my tip look healthy right now it
pretty much does it's silver so I can
just kind of continue on if my tip
looked burnt up I would you know go kind
of clean it off
you're really just kind of flowing the
you know tinned pads if you don't really
need to add big globs of new solder so
like here you know like you can kind of
learn like what the ideal joint would
look like you don't want it to be
starved for solder but you also don't
want it to be um you know kind of over
overloaded either so this one looks a
little bit light there now it looks like
add a bit more okay you need a bit more
solder just add the solid to your tip
and then it'll transfer it to the color
and you can start to see on my tip is
starting to look left now so I would
probably want to clean it off pretty
soon when you get to the ends these are
your anchors so these you want to build
up a little bit if this is the strength
for your connector a lot of times you
can you know make a perfectly fine
connector but those anchor pins are kind
of weak and then it'll just rip right
off when you're plugging in your screen
and that's a big drag okay alright next
is inspection so what makes what what's
going to give us confidence in this
connector is seeing that there's no
movement of any of the pins okay on the
pod and we're also going to kind of turn
the board on its side and that's another
great thing about you know a microscope
that you can kind of have that extra
control over right be able to can really
choose low vision and I can sense like
focus just the the focus and then you
can kind of you know so you can really
see that there's no gaps on any other
joints and you'll probably find a bad
one that you're like up that one I need
to sort of reflow I'm just sort of
touching through touching them to see if
they move looking for movement you know
no movement in this level of meticulous
care about each connector is something
at manufacturing they would never do
right but we have a board it's worth
several hundred dollars right level tiny
component has failed so we're able to
write but then you come over right I
mean the reality is you know when if you
if you were going to do this as a board
level repair for your general repair
business this is a very typical repair
where somebody
his let's say they were troubleshooting
a defective screen so there was a lot of
connect/disconnect on it and you know a
lot of times those connectors can kind
of get shifted a little bit and it'll
mash up the end of it and then you'll
have a screen with no touch
okay so replacing this connector is a
you know very valid and viable repair
that any general repair shop should be
able to do you know it's really not not
that much of a stretch to get this board
get some connectors practice with good
equipment right and then you'll be able
to do it you know you really will well
thank you so much for showing me this
this is absolutely enlightening this
opens up new world of possibilities for
repairing very small components I think
this is something that a lot of people
could get really into so we are going to
continue on with a series we have Jesse
Jones here with us all week and we're
going to be doing a number of other
repairs so we'll be diving in and you're
actually going to teach some of us at
iFixit how to get in and do some of
these repairs yeah we're going to fix
some stuff all right yes
you