I love my iPad I love the freedom that
it gives me even more than my laptop or
did now I'm forced to use Larry around
outlets where you still love the
outdoors it's his birthday and he needs
a new battery so today I'm going to show
you how to replace the battery in your
iPad so we can get back out into nature
or at least away from the outlet hi I'm
Gwendolyn with iFixit and I'll be
walking you through this repair today
but as always make sure to check out our
step by step guide as we go I'll be
doing this repair on a third-generation
Wi-Fi iPad but if your model is
different make sure to check out our
guide for your specific device iPad
repairs are no joke a quick look through
our step-by-step guide will show you
just removing the panel takes up 25
steps but don't let that discourage you
just keep in mind that this repair is
going to take you a while to do and will
require a good amount of patience for
this repair you're going to need an
eye-opener kit that comes with an eye
opener and all the special opening tools
you'll need for this repair including
plastic opening tools and a set of
opening pics
you'll also need a metal spudger a
phillips double zero screwdriver and a
plastic spudger once we have everything
together we can get started first off
you want to make sure your iPad is off
and completely disconnected from any
power source check and check and to get
this bad boy open we're going to use the
eye opener which heats up and softens
all the adhesive holding the front panel
in place to get started just top the eye
opener in the microwave for 1 minute and
place it on the edges of the device
I recommend beginning on the right-hand
side because there's a small gap in the
adhesive ride around here that speak
perfect place to start using a plastic
opening tool begin prying the glass up
and away from the bezel it can be hard
to see but you want to make sure you
insert the tool between the bezel and
the glass as soon as you're able to open
a small gas insert the first of your
picks to prevent the panel from
reattaching to the glue
while the adhesive is still hot from the
eye-opener try sliding the pic down to
loosen it along the right side the
adhesive is extremely strong so you're
going to need to use some serious force
to get it separated if you're having a
ton of trouble moving the pics simply
reapply the eye opener to the area
you're working on when sliding the pic
you want to make sure that it's never
pushed beyond the black bezel of your
iPad if you're able to see the tip of
the pick through the glass you're in
there way too far having the pick in
that far can potentially get adhesive
residue on your LCD or damage some
internal components
once you've made it to the bottom corner
of the iPad you'll want to insert
another pic in the area we just opened
up to keep the glue from resetting at
this point we suggest turning your
attention to both the bottom and top
edges of the iPad with your eye opener
and picks use the same process of
heating and separating and work your way
across the two edges going a couple of
inches at a time we found that this
method reduces the risk of cracking the
front panel one quick warning before you
start you want to be wary when using
your pics at the bottom section of the
iPad the Wi-Fi antenna is attached to
the bottom right edges of the rear case
of the iPad work carefully and slowly
and make sure not to sever this cable
just like before whenever you make a
little progress in separating the glass
slide another pick in to keep things
from reefs ticking now all that's left
is the left-hand side of the iPad be
cautious with your picks of trying tools
when you're working on the lower half of
this side the digitizer cable is located
about two inches from the bottom and we
want to make sure we don't do anything
to damage that in any way
holding the iPad from the top and bottom
right corners rotate the front glass
away from the iPad don't just pull it
off because the front panel is still
attached to the logic board if you're
getting any resistance when lifting use
your picks to cut the adhesive we did it
the hard part is over from here on out
everything is pretty straightforward
starting with removing the four screws
securing the LCD to the aluminum frame
once the screws are removed use your
spudger or plastic opening tool to
gently lift the LCD out of the case make
sure to be careful though the LCD ribbon
cable is fragile
there's a small piece of tape that's
covering the LCD ribbon cable connector
which can make it tricky to see it first
but you can use your spudger to remove
that now you will see the retaining flap
on the LCD ribbon cables lift connector
this connector has a lock that you need
to lift up in order to release the cable
this mechanism is very fragile and you
don't want to break it so be very
careful and use the tip of your spudger
to liquid depending on your finger size
you may need to use tweezers to pull the
cable from its connector fortunately for
me my fingers work just fine now we can
move on to the digitizer cable this
cable uses the same type of connectors
that the LCD use so apply the same
warnings here be careful and use your
sputters
finally peel back the digitizer ribbon
cable and use the flat end of your
spider to relieve the adhesive securing
the cable to the rear aluminum case
using your fingers appeal the digitizer
ribbon cable out of its recesses from
the aluminum frame if present remove the
pieces of electrical tape covering the
Wi-Fi antenna speaker cable and dock
connector cable now you can slide the
flat end of your spudger underneath the
plastic spacer at the bottom right
corner of the iPad use the flat end of
your spider to disconnect the dock
connector Wi-Fi antenna and speaker
cables from the logic board we also need
to disconnect the headphone jack
assembly cables which are located at the
opposite side of the logic board
there are four screws securing the logic
board and once you remove those you can
lift the logic board up and out of the
rear case now we can move on to the
battery this battery is held in place by
a lot of adhesion in order to get the
battery out safely you need to remove
the glue a little at a time
batteries contain all sorts of nasty
chemicals that are harmful to inhale so
make sure you don't puncture it or
damage it as you go let's start with the
metal spudger slip it underneath the
battery near the bottom of the ipad this
is extremely sticky so you may have to
put a lot of force into it but remember
work slowly and carefully for your
spider doesn't slip
now we can gently lift the left side up
if you feel the adhesive still holding
on give it a little spudger action once
the battery is out you're ready for your
new one and before we go here's a couple
of helpful tips for putting your iPad
back together when it comes time to
reapply your front panel you need to
take a few things into consideration
first and foremost you're going to want
to make sure you thoroughly clean your
LCD and both sides of your front panel
the last thing you want is a speck of
dirt or a fingerprint haunting you for
the rest of your iPad life we recommend
using a microfiber cloth and cleaning
solution like Omni cleanse or apple
juice whichever second many people are
able to reuse the existing adhesive on
their front panels till we adhere them
but seeing as the process involves a lot
of heating and scraping there is no
guarantee of that so it might be a good
idea to pick up a few replacement
adhesive strips lastly when closing up
your iPad be mindful of the digitizer
cable you want to make sure it doesn't
get stuck in the adhesive and especially
that it doesn't get pinched or creased
in the panel of course you can find all
the parts and tools you need for this
and many more repairs at ifixit.com and
let us know how it goes we love to hear
your repair success stories don't forget
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