you started noticing dead pixels on your
LCD but you don't want to buy a new iPad
Mini well you've come to the right place
cuz today I'm going to show you how to
replace the LCD in your iPad Mini hi I'm
going to learn with iFixit and for this
repair you're going to need an eye
opener spudger tweezers pix phillips
double-0 screwdriver plastic opening
tools and a small suction cup warning
this repair is extremely complicated
lots of components are adhered and can
be easily broken please proceed with
caution and remember to follow each step
on the guide on our site I have all the
parts and tools I need in my eye opener
kit and my pro tect tool kit and I never
do a repair without my magnetic map
Before we jump in I want to warn you
that some of these steps sound
complicated but are pretty simple you
may want to watch the upcoming steps
before you try it yourself
and as always use our step-by-step guide
as a reference having a picture to zoom
in on can be very helpful when you're
deciding on what piece to work on next
okay let's get started
first off you want to make sure your
iPad is off and completely disconnected
from any power source and to open this
bad boy we're going to use our eye
opener which heats up and softens all
the adhesive holding the front panel in
place but keep your pics and opening
tools handy because you're going to need
those to keep the glue from resetting
after we've softened it now get your
suction cup and place it on the bottom
right corner of the front panel glass
just above the lower bezel and near the
right edge of the mini pull up on the
suction cup enough to open a small gap
between the front panel glass and the
rear panel
using a plastic opening tool begin
prying the glass up and away from the
bezel it can be hard to see but you want
to make sure you insert the tool between
the bezel and the glass as soon as
you're able to open a small gap insert
the first of your picks to prevent the
panel from reattaching to the glue you
may even want to hit it with some more
heat from your eye opener if it gives
you some resistance one quick warning
before you start you want to be wary
when you're using the pics at the bottom
section of the iPad the Wi-Fi antenna is
attached to the bottom right edge of the
rear case work carefully and slowly
making sure not to sever this cable now
you're going to make your way up the
right side by starting with heat and
then sliding the opening tool up the
edge and adding another pic once you get
to the top right corner repeat this
process from the bottom right corner to
the bottom left corner but be careful
because you can sever the digitizer
cable and the Wi-Fi antenna now it's
time to move from the bottom left corner
to the top left corner once that's done
you can finish from the top left to the
top right you want to stop once you
reach the camera at the top because you
can damage the camera or its cable if
you slide a guitar pick over the camera
so just slide up to the camera and pick
it up on the other side when sliding the
pic you want to make sure it's never
pushed beyond the black bezel of your
iPad if you ever see the pic through the
glass you're in way too far
having the pic in that far can
potentially get adhesive residue on your
LCD or damage some of the internal
components
holding the iPad by the top two corners
rotate the front glass away from the
iPad don't just pull it off because the
front panel is still attached to the
logic board now you can remove the small
foam tape covering the screws securing
the LCD to the rear case there's a small
piece of tape covering the bottom and
top right screws and the top-left LCD
screw might be covered by adhesive tape
from the front panel you can use your
tweezers to remove those and once you
have a clear view of all for LCD screws
you can get to work on them with your
Phillips driver first we have a few
things to take care of before we can get
to the LCD metal shield we're going to
use a pair of tweezers to peel up the
small piece of tape connecting the LCD
frame to the right speaker then we can
pull the top of the foam tape
surrounding the LCD with the foam tape
out of the way you should be able to see
the tape that's connecting the LCD frame
to the LCD use the tip of your spudger
to separate the tape time to turn our
attention to the shield plate the LCD is
glued to the shield plate so we're going
to use our picks and start at the gap
between the LCD in the rear case near
the top and left side of the LCD
now you can bend your pics slightly just
enough to create a small gap continue
with your pic in this way down the left
side and then the right
gently separating the LCD from the rear
case you may have to repeat this a few
times until the LCD is easily moved left
and right now that it's loose you can
use the flat end of your spudger to
separate the adhesive beneath but be
sure to get the spudger between the LCD
frame and the backing plate and not
beneath the plate prying up on the plate
will damage it because it's screwed down
to the rear case beneath the LCD let's
start with the top right side and once
the flat end of your spudger is in the
correct position we're going to slowly
push our spudger all the way along the
side in between the LCD frame and the
metal backing the goal is to separate
the adhesive not to pry the LCD up so
keep the pointed tip of the spudger as
low as possible to prevent bending the
LCD if you see the LCD bending in any
way
stop this step and go back to listening
it with your pigs before coming back to
it repeat this step along the top and
left side and then try to lift it a
couple of inches from the rear case once
you feel it loosened you can flip the
LCD onto the front glass but don't try
to remove the LCD because it's still
attached by the data cable
there are 16 screws that need to be
removed from the LCD shield plates so
get moving now we can pry the shield
away from the rear case with the flat
end of our spudger and remove it on to
the battery connector remove the three
screws holding the connector shield in
place and remove the shield but be sure
to make a note of where these screws
came out on your magnetic mat or
wherever you're sorting your screws you
want to make sure you don't put any
other screws here upon reassembly as
longer screws might strip the screw
holes and result in irreparable damage
to the logic board
moving on we need to use our opening
tool or spudger to disconnect the
battery and LCD connector from the
sockets on the logic board you would
think the LCD would be free by now but
wait there's more tape to deal with so
to deal with the tape that connects the
LCD to the rest of the iPad we just need
to grab the LCD in one hand and insert
the spudger between the LCD tape and the
iPads right side fly the spudger to
separate the tape and gently lift the
LCD repeat on the remaining tape moving
left and just like that the LCD is
finally free and can be lifted up for
reassembly we recommend you follow the
step by step guide on ifixit.com
in Reverse and if you're in the mood to
see a reassembly video check out our
ipad mini gsm reassembly video on our
channel you can find all the parts and
tools you need for this and many more
repairs at ifixit.com and let us know
how it goes you can find me on twitter
at Gwendolyn gaye and follow i fix it at
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