you're adorable iPad Mini goes with you
everywhere but it's losing juice with
every charge it's time for a new battery
and you're in luck because today I'm
going to walk you through replacing the
battery in your iPad Mini hi I'm Gwen
Toulon with iFixit and for this repair
you're going to need an eye opener
spudger tweezers picks philips double-0
screwdriver plastic opening tools two
plastic cards and a small suction cup
warning this repair is extremely
complicated lots of components are
adhered and can be easily broken please
proceed with caution and remember to
follow each step on the guide on our
site i have all the parts and tools i
need in my eye opener kit and my pro
tect tool kit and i never do a repair
without my magnetic map Before we jump
in I want to warn you that some of these
steps sound complicated but are pretty
simple you may want to watch the
upcoming step before you try it yourself
and as always use our step-by-step guide
as a reference having a picture to zoom
in on can be very helpful when you're
deciding on what piece to work on next
okay let's get started
first off you want to make sure your
iPad is off and completely disconnected
from any power source and to open this
bad boy we're going to use our eye
opener which heats up and softens all
the adhesive holding the front panel in
place but keep your picks and opening
tools handy because you're gonna need
those to keep the glue from resetting
after we've softened it now get your
suction cup and place it on the bottom
right corner of the front panel glass
just above the lower bezel and near the
right edge of the mini pull up on the
suction cup enough to open a small gap
between the front panel glass and the
rear panel
using a plastic opening tool begin
prying the glass up and away from the
bezel it can be hard to see but you want
to make sure you insert the tool between
the bezel and the glass as soon as
you're able to open a small gap insert
the first of your picks to prevent the
panel from reattaching to the glue you
may even want to hit it with some more
heat from your eye opener if it gives
you some resistance one quick warning
before you start you want to be wary
when you're using the pics at the bottom
section of the iPad the Wi-Fi antenna is
attached to the bottom right edge of the
rear case work carefully and slowly
making sure not to sever this cable now
you're going to make your way up the
right side by starting with heat and
then sliding the opening tool up the
edge and adding another pic once you get
to the top right corner repeat this
process from the bottom right corner to
the bottom left corner but be careful
because you can sever the digitizer
cable and the Wi-Fi antenna now it's
time to move from the bottom left corner
to the top left corner once that's done
you can finish from the top left to the
top right you want to stop once you
reach the camera at the top because you
can damage the camera or its cable if
you slide a guitar pick over the camera
so just slide up to the camera and pick
it up on the other side when sliding the
pic you want to make sure it's never
pushed beyond the black bezel of your
iPad if you ever see the pic through the
glass you're in way too far having to
pick in that far can potentially get
adhesive residue on your LCD or damage
some of the internal components
holding the iPad by the top two corners
rotate the front glass away from the
iPad don't just pull it off because the
front panel is still attached to the
logic board now you can remove the small
foam tape covering the screws securing
the LCD to the rear case there's a small
piece of tape covering the bottom and
top right screws and the top-left LCD
screw might be covered by adhesive tape
from the front panel you can use your
tweezers to remove those and once you
have a clear view of all for LCD screws
you can get to work on them with your
Phillips driver first we have a few
things to take care of before we can get
to the LCD metal shield we're going to
use a pair of tweezers to peel up the
small piece of tape connecting the LCD
frame to the right speaker then we can
pull the top of the foam tape
surrounding the LCD with the foam tape
out of the way you should be able to see
the tape that's connecting the LCD frame
to the LCD use the tip of your spudger
to separate the tape time to turn our
attention to the shield plate the LCD is
glued to the shield plate so we're going
to use our picks and start at the gap
between the LCD in the rear case near
the top and left side of the LCD
now you can bend your pick slightly just
enough to create a small gap continue
with your pick in this way down the left
side and then the right
gently separating the LCD from the rear
case you may have to repeat this a few
times until the LCD is easily moved left
and right now that it's loose you can
use the flat end of your spudger to
separate the adhesive beneath but be
sure to get this budget between the LCD
frame and the backing plate and not
beneath the plate prying up on the plate
will damage it because it's screwed down
to the rear case beneath the LCD let's
start with the top right side and once
the flat end of your spudger is in the
correct position we're going to slowly
push our spudger all the way along the
side in between the LCD frame and the
metal backing the goal is to separate
the adhesive not to pry the LCD up so
keep the pointed tip of the spudger as
low as possible to prevent bending the
LCD if you see the LCD bending in any
way
stop this step and go back to loosening
it with your pics before coming back to
this
repeat this step along the top and left
side and then try to lift it a couple of
inches from the rear case once you feel
it loosened you can flip the LCD on to
the front glass but don't try to remove
the LCD because it's still attached by
the data cable
there are 16 screws that need to be
removed from the LCD shield plate so get
moving now we can pry the shield away
from the rear case with the flat end of
our spudger and remove it on to the
battery connector remove the three
screws holding the connector shield in
place and remove the shield but be sure
to make a note of where these screws
came out on your Mac med mat or wherever
you're sorting your screws you want to
make sure you don't put any other screws
here upon reassembly as longer screws
might strip the screw holes and result
in irreparable damage to the logic board
moving on we need to use our opening
tool or spudger to disconnect the
battery and LCD connector from the
sockets on the logic board you would
think the LCD would be free by now but
wait there's more tape to deal with so
to deal with the tape that connects the
LCD to the rest of the iPad we just need
to grab the LCD in one hand and insert
the spudger between the LCD tape and the
iPads right side fly the spudger to
separate the tape and gently lift the
LCD repeat on the remaining tape moving
left and just like that the LCD is
finally free and can be lifted out now
we can focus on the front panel
first up disconnect the digitizer cable
from the logic board and the digitizer
cable board from the rear case once
those are safely disconnected you can
remove the front panel
let's get to work on the reason we're
all here the battery start by turning
your mini over reheating your eye-opener
another minute and placing it on the
center of the back panel let it sit
there for about 90 seconds and then move
it to the right of the back panel and
leave it there for another 90 seconds
flip your mini over and get your cards
handy we're going to slip our cards
between the top left battery and the
rear case then try the same thing on the
top right side of the battery but try to
keep your cards as flat as possible so
you avoid any bending in the battery and
if you find significant resistance just
rehear iOpener and start over on
loosening the battery adhesive once the
right side feels nice and loose we're
going to do the same thing on the other
side but leave the card here to prevent
any glue from resetting
with the adhesive taken care of on both
the bottom and top now we can try to get
the battery out grab the cards and
slowly pull the right side of the
battery up about two inches from the
rear case
peel slowly and try to keep the battery
as straight as possible while lifting on
the right side of the battery with one
hand use the plastic card to cut the
adhesive still holding the battery down
on the rear case for reassembly we
recommend you follow the step-by-step
guide on a fix-it comm in Reverse and if
you're in the mood to see a reassembly
video check out our ipad mini gsm
reasonably video on our channel you can
find all the parts and tools you need
for this and many more repairs at
ifixit.com and let us know how it goes
you can find me on twitter at Gwendolyn
gaye and follow i fix it at iFixit don't
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